Have you ever ever skilled a rash or pores and skin irritation after utilizing artificial hair for braids? Was your scalp itchy to the purpose the place you needed to wash your hair or take out your model? Researchers might need unlocked the reply as to why this response could possibly be taking place.
When scientists at Shopper Stories examined artificial braiding hair lately and introduced they discovered chemical compounds within the strands, the findings sparked dialog on-line about what’s protected on the subject of braiding your crown. The report mentioned extended publicity to those chemical compounds presents a well being risk to Black folks as a result of they’re the commonest customers of the hair.
For researchers who research environmental harms on the subject of magnificence merchandise, it additionally underscored the on a regular basis dangers that Black folks face when utilizing hair and cosmetics which are largely unregulated and include extra poisonous chemical compounds in them than merchandise which are marketed to their white counterparts.
“These exposures will not be only a one-off, however they add up,” mentioned Elissia Franklin, an analytical chemist and analysis scientist on the Silent Spring Institute based mostly in Massachusetts. “As an example, you have got the chemical compounds which are within the braided hair now. However then you definately’re doing the child hairs with the sting management. And now you’re including on the mousse to handle the flyaways. And then you definately didn’t grease your scalp but, so now you’re including on the grease.”
“After which the lotion and the lip gloss,” Franklin mentioned. “And including the eyelash glue to your lash extensions, with fragrance to prime it off, all which can include a number of chemical compounds of well being concern.”
Black girls symbolize roughly 14% of the entire magnificence trade market share; spending $473 million yearly on hair care merchandise alone — spending six occasions greater than some other ethnic group. Whereas members of all ethnic teams put on hair extensions, the cheaper, low-quality hair is usually marketed to Black folks and are offered virtually completely inside the Black neighborhood.
Scientists from Shopper Stories discovered carcinogens, or chemical compounds that will trigger most cancers. Throughout testing of the artificial braiding hair they found acetone, a unstable natural compound (VOC), or a mixture of chemical compounds that evaporate within the air at room temperature. And researchers additionally discovered lead within the hair.
And whereas the lead ranges that had been discovered had been very low, there isn’t a protected quantity of lead publicity. Over an prolonged interval, it will probably trigger well being points resembling mind and nerve harm, reproductive points in adults, and developmental issues in kids.
How do chemical compounds go from the shop shelf to your physique?
So how do these chemical compounds get into our system? When strong matter goes by means of a chemical change, the components can enter our system by being breathed in, by coming involved with our pores and skin or by being swallowed. These chemical compounds will be unwittingly absorbed a number of occasions all through the day.
“Individuals may be uncovered to a few of these chemical compounds on this report … by means of how the hair is handled,” mentioned Alexa Friedman, a senior scientist on the Surroundings Working Group in Washington. “So when the hair is both heated up at any level in the course of the utility it’s doable that folks will be uncovered to the VOCs by means of respiration them in.”
Different methods of publicity will be extra refined. Scientists mentioned the chemical compounds could possibly be absorbed within the scalp or from tiny cuts within the arms, in addition to inhaled when the artificial hair is burned or if an individual is consuming whereas the braids are being put in. As soon as these chemical compounds are launched into the system, they’ll stay for fairly a while.
Publicity to those chemical compounds can have a harmful affect on well being. Within the brief time period, the substances may cause scalp, pores and skin, or throat irritation. Researchers mentioned they discovered benzene and methylene chloride, and these chemical compounds have been linked to most cancers.
In recent times, Nigerian scientists have tried to sound the alarm concerning the risks of artificial hair. In 2013, researchers at Federal College Wukari discovered that the preferred artificial hair had excessive ranges of heavy metals. And in 2022, researchers at Federal College of Expertise, Owerri revealed a report signaling that the compounds might have a damaging affect on girls’s well being.
In terms of the motivation to speculate such massive quantities of time and cash in these merchandise, the explanations are greater than pores and skin deep.
Black girls are subjected to extra strain to evolve to Eurocentric magnificence requirements or face office discrimination, regardless of 25 states passing The CROWN Act, which protects towards discrimination based mostly on hair texture. Black girls with coily or curly hair are twice as more likely to expertise microaggressions within the office than Black girls with straighter hair. Even getting services for curly or coiled hair prices greater than straight hair. It’s referred to as the “Afro Tax.”
Franklin of Silent Spring Institute mentioned being attentive to the merchandise which are used every day can lower the danger of publicity.
“There are a number of merchandise we’re utilizing on daily basis that will include dangerous chemical compounds,” she added. “And so it’s about being extra conscious and intentional about what we’re placing on our our bodies and exposing ourselves to.”
Options to artificial braiding hair
Black girls will not be out of choices on the subject of hair braiding. There are a number of firms creating natural, earth-friendly hair extensions that give the identical feel and look as artificial hair.
Lillian Augusta Magnificence sells plant-based hair bundles referred to as “Hair With out Hurt” which are derived from corn fibers. The Chicago-based firm was co-founded by Jannice Newson in 2019 whereas she was learning environmental science on the College of Michigan.
Rebundle is one other Black woman-owned, unhazardous, plant-based hair firm. Based mostly in St. Louis, Ciara Imani Might began her firm to alleviate her personal discomfort with braids.
And Kynd Hair, which is plastic-free, is ready to make its debut in 2025. Rising up Black in Germany, Cosima Richardson, Kynd Hair’s founder and CEO, was all the time carrying braids. As an grownup, she started to query the origins of her artificial strands and began her firm.
And for many who simply can’t let go of the artificial hair simply but, the excellent news is you don’t need to immediately. Utilizing artificial hair can nonetheless be achieved safely:
Improve air flow by opening the home windows or use an air air purifier to do away with these VOCs.
Washing your arms regularly additionally helps cut back the transmission of poisons.
Clear your braiding house as properly.
Franklin additionally recommends taking breaks from artificial braiding hair.
“I believe something you are able to do to attempt to simply hold your air ventilated and cut back your direct contact may help,” she mentioned. “Simply taking a break in between or carrying it for shorter durations of time or selecting a safer different to artificial hair could be good.”
The rising consciousness of the risks of the chemical compounds in artificial hair has sparked important conversations within the Black neighborhood concerning the intersection of well being and atmosphere.
The excellent news is that these conversations are additionally motivating Black girls engineers and entrepreneurs to create safer options that won’t solely maintain the earth but additionally our well being. This shift is not only a pattern, however a giant step towards prioritizing well being whereas sustaining conventional braiding types.
