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Jamaica, Jamaica: 36 Hours of Culture, Coffee and Callaloo

January 7, 2025
in Lifestyle
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There’s one thing about Jamaica that made me really feel like I used to be residence, just like the island reached out with open arms and stated, “Come right here, chile, you’re one in all us.”

From the second my toes touched Jamaican soil, I had just a little theme music enjoying in my head: Jamaica, Jamaicaaaa. Why? As a result of in simply 36 hours, this island’s spirit had infiltrated my system. My blood? Now, 30% jerk seasoning, 20% curry and a cheeky splash of rum cream for steadiness.

However let me get severe for a second. After the chaos of our current presidential election, I wanted a reset. I felt unseen, unmoored. So, when EBONY had a chance to dive into Jamaican tradition, I virtually broke a nail volunteering. Being in a spot the place the faces, meals and rhythms felt like a mirror was precisely the soul care I wanted.

I’ve been reminded: there is no such thing as a such factor as an “common Jamaican.” And I’ve discovered that to be true. It’s not common in America to take a look at your fellow man and see magnificence and humanity. It’s now not frequent to look somebody within the eye and say, “Good afternoon.” Bob Marley’s anthem, One Love, completely encapsulates the essence of Jamaican tradition—a tradition of unity, kindness and heat. It’s not only a basic music however a lifestyle. And let’s face it, one which America ought to take copious notes on proper about now.

Sure, all of us flock to Jamaica for the beachside rum punch and jerk rooster. And whereas these are pleasant perks, there’s a lot extra to Jamaica past its beautiful waterfronts and flavor-packed delicacies.

Blue Mountain Coffee Craigton Estate
Blue Mountain Espresso Craigton Property. Picture: Candace Rodney for EBONY

Espresso, Tradition, and Conversations within the Blue Mountains

Our cultural immersion kicked off with Sicourney Jackson from the Jamaican Vacationer Board as my information. Sicourney is mainly the Beyoncé of Jamaican satisfaction—infectious smile, countless data and flawless supply. Collectively, we headed straight for the Blue Mountains, residence of the world’s finest espresso. (And no, this isn’t up for debate.)

The drive was a lush, inexperienced journey, winding increased and better into the hills till the bustling dance of Kingston pale right into a serene, virtually mystical calm. Plantain estates stretched out like emerald carpets, and our information, Alton Bedward, greeted us with a smile that stated, “I’m about to blow your thoughts.” For a lot of Jamaican farmers, espresso is their major crop, however financial survival means a wide range of vegatables and fruits are additionally grown. 

Alton, a self-described “radical mental” and full-time espresso aficionado, didn’t simply serve me espresso; he served me historical past, philosophy and a facet of witty repartee.

Like my information, I like my espresso (and my males) Black. And let me let you know, this was one of the best cup of espresso I’ve ever had. I melted into its richness, savoring the aromas and flavors like a wonderful wine. This was extra than simply espresso; it was a celebration of historical past, resilience and the wonder that blossoms from Black palms nurturing the soil.

The Devon House in Jamaica
The Devon Home in Kingston, Jamaica. Picture: Narvikk for Getty Photos.

Ice Cream and Historical past at Devon Home

Subsequent cease: Devon Home, the previous property of Jamaica’s first Black millionaire, George Stiebel. Devon Home is extra than simply historical past—it’s a hub of group, outlets and treats, together with what’s arguably (however actually, positively) the world’s finest ice cream. However neglect the ice cream—child, that callaloo patty I had made my style buds Dutty Wine. I would like y’all to grasp {that a} callaloo patty modified my life. Completely seasoned greens wrapped in flaky, golden crust—it was like American soul meals and Jamaican love had a child. Sorry, ice cream followers, however the patty stole the present.

Callaloo Patty. Picture: Candace Rodney for EBONY.

The Gospel In line with Bob Marley

After which it occurred. We arrived on the Bob Marley Museum. Let me say it louder for the individuals within the again: THE. BOB. MARLEY. MUSEUM.

I grew up on Bob Marley’s philosophy. Feeling down? Get Up, Stand Up. Want motivation? Redemption Music—as a result of “sleep is an escape for fools.”

Rickey Chaplin at the Bob Marley Museum
Rickey Chaplin on the Bob Marley Museum. Picture: Candace Rodney for EBONY.

This wasn’t only a museum go to; it was a pilgrimage. Guided by Rickey Chaplin (who additionally performed Marley’s non secular advisor in One Love), we toured the property that housed Jamaica’s first household. Collectively we sang in his recording studio and even seen his bed room room the place his favourite guitar nonetheless rests. Each locations the place magic was made (wink, wink); the areas felt sacred. No pictures allowed, and I fully understood why. Some issues are supposed to be skilled, not captured. As we left, I felt baptized by the Church of Marley, able to “stand up, get up” for no matter comes subsequent.

Mural Tour in Jamaica
Mural Tour. Picture: Candace Rodney for EBONY.

A Splash of Creativity and a Sprint of Dancehall

Earlier than wrapping up, we stopped to see Romona McLean-Foster and the staff at Kingston Inventive, a nonprofit arts and tradition collective amplifying Jamaican creativity. The mural tour alone was definitely worth the journey—vivid, daring, and unapologetically Jamaican. Trying down the road of Waterfront Lane was breathtaking. I skilled my first AR artwork exhibit—it blew me away. Vibrant modern artistry, the sounds of dancehall music, and the aroma of jerk rooster roasting on the road; it was a sensory overload in one of the best ways doable.

Photo finish at Caymans Park
Picture end at Caymanas Park. Picture: Candace Rodney for EBONY

Giddy Up: The Mouttet Mile

Day two kicked off with the Mouttet Mile, the Caribbean’s crown jewel of horse racing. This 12 months’s derby is Western-themed. Why I didn’t recycle my Renaissance Tour garb for this, I’ll by no means know.

Whereas Jamaica’s legacy has been cemented in monitor and area, the island really has an extended historical past with thoroughbred horse racing. Caymanas Park, being is the island’s sole horse racing monitor for the more and more standard sport.

The VIP remedy? Rum cream on faucet and delicacies so good I thought of unbuttoning my pants mid-meal. (I didn’t, nevertheless it was shut.) Hosted by singer Estelle and actor Stephen Bishop, the occasion was equal components excessive trend and excessive stakes.

Race by race, the thrill within the stands grew as we acquired nearer and nearer to the large race. I joined the thrill by inserting just a few bets on the races with a method comprised on choosing my favourite quantity and selecting horses primarily based on the jockey’s outfits. And whereas I don’t advocate this strategy, I used to be fortunate and a giant winner that day. The Mouttet Mile’s $250,000 purse is one the richest within the Caribbean, and the highest prize went to Funcaandun. A Kentucky-bred, Jamaica-raced Funcaandun began later within the pack however completed robust for the win.

Closing Ideas

In simply 36 hours, Jamaica jogged my memory of the facility of tradition, group and connection. Certain, the seashores are gorgeous, however Kingston? Kingston is the heartbeat.

As we step into a brand new 12 months, let’s carry just a little Jamaican spirit with us: unity, kindness and a wholesome dose of jerk spice. Thanks to the Jamaican Vacationer Board for a style of residence that I didn’t even know I wanted.

Till subsequent time, Jamaica. One love.



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Tags: CallalooCoffeeCultureHoursJamaica
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